On March 24, a few weeks before I had to buckle down to study for exams, we took off with our good friends, Kevin and Yasmine, for a ten-day adventure to Morocco and Portugal. Each day was full of laughs to the point of snorting despite the travel-related mishaps (including a one-hour ferry that took four, and a manual rental-car for an automatic-only driver -- somewhere near the Portugese border, I'm fairly certain we lost the clutch), hourly pee-stops (whether we were near a bathroom or not, and honestly, after seeing some of the bathrooms, I'd prefer not), random injuries (including sunburns, as Kev is as pale as me -- sorry Kev-o, 'pink' is not the new 'tan'), illness (my stomach decided it disapproved of housing Moroccan food in my system for more than approximately ten minutes), and the fact that most of us wore the same outfit for four days in a row (which likely prevented us from dodging the street vendors; they could smell us coming). There are so many stories from this trip that I could go on for pages, but I'll just give you a few highlights, and hope that our memories are good enough someday (when we're sitting behind a desk at midnight working on a brief) to recall all the little moments where we laugh-snorted our way through Moroc-tugal.
So, here goes... Our adventure started when we arrived in Portugal and picked up our rental car. Lesson #1 - Portugese rental car companies have two options: manual and manual. Below is a picture of Kev trying to teach Yas to drive stick, to do a four-hour drive, in the dark, in a foreign country. After ten minutes of not being able to make the car move from the parking spot, she realized she had her foot on the brake. When she said this, Kev realized he was driving. Plus, we needed to get moving, as the rental car peeps were starting to stare wondering what the heck us foreigners were doing sitting in the lot revving the car. Crazy Americans.
We drove four-hours, crossed the border into Spain (despite the soldiers with uzis stopping us at the border, causing Kev to pee himself -- the first of the no-bathroom pee-breaks) and spent the night in a Spanish hotel in Algeciras without air conditioning (and thus, I can pinpoint the moment where our clothes started to stank). We woke the next morning and hopped on the 'one-hour fast-ferry' into Tangier, Morocco.

Four hours later, we had arrived. Bonjour Morocco! (I say 'bonjour' since they speak French there. Arabic is the main language, but I failed to learn 'wussup' in Arabic. I didn't need to know though, as my travel-companions preferred that I keep my loud-American-yapper shut so as not immediately identify us as U.S. tourists. Unfortunately, I don't think it helped, as my paleness and pink bandana didn't really scream native. I tried, every once in a while, though, to throw in a "what's it all aboot, eh?" so that at least they'd think we were Canadian.) We arrived at the beautiful Hotel Continental (interestingly, where an Indiana Jones movie was filmed) and settled in.

The lobby...

We couldn't find someone to take a pic, so someone had to be photoshopped in. Thus, the Will-sized space.
We were going for a Modern Moroccan Magazine cover look.
The next day, we explored Tangier. We shopped in the souks which were full of pretty lanterns, colorful spices, sparkley caftans (traditional dress), and sadly, some Louis Vuitton knockoffs.

We checked out the city, including its museum, winding narrow streets, and coastline.


We also ate a ton of food. Everything was so inexpensive that we were able to get a huge lunch for about 12 dirham (1 euro!) For 4 dirham, I got a donut (see below) and complimentary cleansing of my system ten minutes later.
Although it was a very picturesque area, it was also a very poor area, without the basic infrastructure that we take for granted. Garbage services, law enforcement, health codes, even hot water -- all of these things are a luxury that are not always present. Sometimes you just don't appreciate how good you have it until you're in a Moroccan bathroom which consists of a hole, without toilet paper, plumbing, or any control over your stomach due to a suspect donut.
The culture shock is the thing that I will remember most about Tangier. Women were completely covered and did not hang with the menfolk in any social settings like restaurants or even in the mosques. It was always groups of men sitting together, drinking mint tea, watching footie, or kneeling for prayer together. Also, hearing the call to prayer five times during the day, chanted by the muezzin over the loud speakers like an announcer at a sporting match, was startling (especially at 5am). It was interesting to see the devotion to prayer -- people stopped what they were doing, left work, and knelt on their mats to pray. Also fascinating, they did not sell any form of alcohol anywhere (we're sure, we looked).
I tried my best to respect the culture while we were there and to blend (although, as I mentioned, this is tough for a pale redhead). I covered myself from head to toe, wore my baggiest sweatshirt (even in the heat, which again, didn't help the clothing-stank-situation) and a bandana over my hair, and tried to speak discreetly (which, again, was hard as anyone who has heard the volume of my laugh knows all too well). The toughest thing for me, though, was trying not to smile. It's a natural impulse, and one that I hadn't realized did not transcend cultures. The first thing the hotel manager told us when we arrived was "don't smile, or they'll make you pay for it." Quite a statement.
All in all, we had a wonderful time in Tangier. I enjoyed experiencing such a drastically different culture, and am eager to explore more areas now beyond Western Europe. You just don't realize how different things are in other areas of the world until you're lost in the maze of a moroccan souk and you can't ask for directions because you either 1) don't speak Arabic 2) can't find a woman to ask, or, 3) can't ask anyone because they've all hit the mat for prayer -- it just 'aint your average shopping mall. I learned a lot during this portion of our trip... about Morocco, and America.
In the next post, I'll describe the next leg of our journey: Portugal! Stay tuned...