After a very uneventful July 4th (as, shockingly, the Brits don’t celebrate that great American holiday commemorating our freedom from England), we headed off for a holiday in Amsterdam! I had heard so much about Amsterdam’s beauty and ‘interesting’ culture, that I thought we had to check it out. So, we hopped on a 45-minute plane ride to arrive in Holland/Netherlands to get in touch with our inner Dutch.
Day 1: And the hits just keep on comin’
The first thing we noticed about this city the second we hopped off the train was the zillions of bikes chained to anything that looked immobile around town. I mean, there were even bikes chained to railings dangling over canals. Unreal. I thought Oxford had a lot of bikes until I saw Amsterdam. Total number of bikes in this city: 750,000. Total number of times a bike grazed/hit us during our 4 day stay: approximately 324… give or take a few dozen, depending on whether you count the times, during our bike ride on Day 3, that we actually hit each other.
The second thing we noticed was the beautiful canals. Each street was incredibly picturesque, with boats meandering up and down the waterways, cute iron-clad bridges crossing the canals, and thousands of narrow 3-story houses built in the 1500’s side-by-side with colorful shutters and blooming flowers on the balconies.


And, finally, the third thing we noticed was, yes, you guessed it, the Red Light District. The only time I’ve seen anywhere near that many tanned, made-up, bikini-clad women in high heels (with curiously, unnaturally large boobage) was during Spring Break in Miami. Each street contained a different type of woman (young/old, thin/curvy, blonde/brunette, varying skin tones, ethnicities, and attractiveness), or I guess I should say, different type of woman or man, as Will informed me that the ladies that I saw in what I termed the ‘tall, muscular woman’ section, were actually men.
In addition to the ladies, we noticed a ton of porn shows, sex shops, and interesting looking ‘coffee’ houses. I can’t describe the things the owners of these various establishments said in order to entice us to enter, as their sales pitches are wholly inappropriate for blogging (and, not to mention, my naïve ears), so I’ll just have to leave that to your imagination. I’ll just say that they were graphically descriptive of the services that they were peddling, so much so that I was freaked out and scurried quickly by any such shops whilst pretending not to understand English.
Also, it was quite bizarre to wander the pretty canals of the city and smell someone smoking marijuana at literally all hours. Breakfast, lunch, dinner time – it didn’t matter; we couldn’t walk five feet without a whiff of the gange. In fact, one strange tourist named Adam, who we had unluckily asked to take our picture on a pretty canal, and who we were fairly certain had recently eaten at one of those special coffeehouses, even begged us to take some of whatever substance he was smoking because, to quote Adam, he wanted ‘to share the love with you good people.’ It’s nice to get a compliment like that, even from a high tourist wearing a fanny-pack that had trouble remembering his last name. Even in his Amsterdamy haze, he was able to recognize greatness. That’s right Adam, we are good people. You can keep your bizarre pocket full of unidentifiable and clearly too-strong intoxicants though. We’re good.
After checking into our amazing hotel (The Pulitzer, which was actually 25 canal homes combined to form one massive, and beautiful, hotel right on a main canal), eating a fab Thai lunch, and experiencing Dutch culture via seeing bikes, canals, prostitutes, porn shops, and what we’re hoping was just pot, we headed to some of Amsterdam’s historical landmarks. For our first day, we chose to go to the Anne Frank House, where the Frank family hid during World War II. Walking in the small area that all eight people lived in, hearing the voices of Anne’s father and her friend describing seeing her in a concentration camp after the family’s hiding space was found, and seeing Anne’s actual diaries was incredibly moving. She became a real person to me, instead of just a character in a story that I read in grade school. It was haunting and terrifying to think of what happened to her. We are blessed to have her diary as a constant reminder of that past.
Day 2: Hup Holland Hup!
On our second day, besides enjoying some killer room service and a stellar meal in Amsterdam’s shopping district at Café PC, we went to what is now one of my favorite museums: the Van Gogh Museum. He is probably my favorite painter, and this museum had some of my favorite, and quite famous, pieces, like Sunflowers, Irises, Almond Blossom, and Pink Peach Trees. I spent hours staring at these beautiful paintings, imagining him painting them, and hearing the stories of his tortured and interesting life. Lovely afternoon.
Then, the main event: after the museum, we stumbled upon a huge field where they were going to play the Netherlands v. Uruguay game on an enormous screen. So, we got some huge, inflatable orange hats, some Heineken, and some orange shirts and plopped ourselves down in the middle of the field to prepare for the big game. We had no idea what we were in for. It turned out that the field, Museumplein, was the place to watch the game. 80,000 Dutch streamed on to the field, and it was happy mayhem hours before the game even started. CNN was there to capture the madness, and Will and I were even filmed by a Dutch TV crew who, I think, due to our bright orange accouterments, assumed we were Dutch. On the stage under the screen was a famous Dutch singer belting out traditional Dutch tunes and people (including these two Americans) were all jumping around, dancing, kicking soccer balls (I mean, footballs) in the air, running with Holland flags, and blowing on vuvuzelas ‘til their faces turned blue. The girls next to us painted my face with red, white, and blue stripes – like the Dutch (and American, ha!) flag, and I was cheering like I was a die-hard Dutchman, only I had no clue what anyone was saying. That didn’t matter though, because football, like love, is the universal language. When the Netherlands scored that first goal, everyone started screaming like they had won the lotto, no matter what language they spoke. It was unreal. And, ‘we’ won the game. Day 2 Amsterdam : total success.

I'm so Dutch. Look at me blend.

Day 3: suicidal bicycling
After a quick jog through the canals and an amazing breakfast at a canal café, we took our lives into our own hands (and into the hands of 750,000 other Dutch bicyclers) and rented bikes to cruise around town. The amount of cars, motorcycles, and other bicycles that came within centimeters of launching me into a canal, made me want to simultaneously vomit and pee myself. Bicyclers are much more aggressive than they are in Oxford, and the rental bike was way heavier than my Henry, so I was slightly terrified and just tried to keep my eyes on the road, the cars, and the direction Will was taking so that I wouldn’t lose him – but the canals, clouds of pot smoke, and flashes of boob were totally distracting. After I hopped off that bike, I needed some ice cream and shopping to recover (or so I convinced Will – creative avoidance of diet and shopping ban eh? I know. To quote fanny-pack Adam, I’m good.) Despite the near injuries and near soiling myself, however, I still managed to have a fantastically fun time touring the city on my Dutch Henry. We cycled in the beautiful park, Vondelpark, like NYC’s Central Park, and checked out the Flower Market and some street performances, including a great violinist. It really was an amazing way to see the city. And then we capped off the day watching the Spain v. Germany game in a cool neighborhood restaurant with some locals. What a blast.


Day 4: Dutch apple pie and Dutch ovens
After apple pancakes and an English breakfast (we must have been homesick, eh?), we took a leisurely canal cruise to see the city from another angle. It was very nice and peaceful to tour the city by boat after the stressful attempt at extreme city biking, Dutch style. We relaxed, ate a ton of ice cream and Dutch apple pie, and pondered things like whether they called a Dutch Oven a ‘Dutch Oven,’ or just an ‘Oven.’ Solving world dilemmas we were. It was a lovely end to a lovely trip. We had such a great time in that beautiful city, enjoying its history and culture. Aside from nearly being launched into a canal and accidentally entering a sex shop while looking for underwear (I had run out, so Will sent me into a shop to get more, but when the cheapest pair of underwear was 91 euros, I realized it wasn’t normal underwear or your average lingerie shop), it was the perfect travel experience.